Sheep, Chips & Stormy Summits: Exploring Snowdonia & Northern Wales
- K-Girl + Benzino
- 3 days ago
- 4 min read
Sheep, sideways rain, and some of the best vegan food we’ve ever had — Snowdonia delivered. We came for the mountains, but stayed for the muddy bike rides, dramatic castles, and pub snacks (Pepe included). Spoiler: one of us nearly got blown off a beach. Twice.
Aberystwyth Detour: Chips & Castle Ruins
On our way up north toward Snowdonia, Benzino had a strong craving for chips with vinegar. Our spontaneous stop: Aberystwyth – a beachside town with a name we still can’t pronounce.
Bustling and a bit touristy, but it delivered the chips and sea air we needed. We took Pepe for a windy walk along the coast and visited the ruins of Aberystwyth Castle, a 13th-century fortress that once played a strategic role in the Welsh-English conflict. Now it’s a moody set of seaside ruins – dramatic and very Welsh.
Before leaving town, Katharina managed to sneak in a flat white from a specialty coffee spot.
☕️ Y Gornel
Home Base in Pentre Gwynfryn
Our base to explore the Snowdonia National Park was a cozy Airbnb near the small village of Pentre Gwynfryn. We set out for a casual stroll before dinner, but Welsh terrain had other plans: think cross-country paths and semi-lost wanderings through meadows.
Snowdonia itself is a stunning national park in northwest Wales known for its rugged peaks, glacial landforms, and endless hiking and biking opportunities. It's also home to the highest mountain in Wales — but more on that later.
The area felt like a postcard: sheep-covered hills, tiny stone cottages, and old pubs waiting to be explored.
MTB Ride Around Llyn Trawsfynydd
Our first active day brought us to Llyn Trawsfynydd, a lake surrounded by trails ideal for mountain biking. Our route took us over sheep-filled pastures, gravel paths, and gentle hills with scenic lake views.
Find our route here.
Harlech: Sunset & Sand Dunes
In the evening, we headed to Harlech to catch the sunset from the dunes. Despite the gale-force winds, it was a moment to remember. We could see Harlech Castle looming in the distance — another medieval fortress perched dramatically above the coast.
Nantcol Waterfalls Morning Stroll
Morning means dog walk time, and Komoot came to the rescue again. We discovered the Nantcol Waterfalls, just a short drive from our base. A scenic, quick loop perfect to get everyone moving.
That Very Long Welsh Place Name
Yes, we did it. We visited Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch — the longest place name in Europe. The name was created in the 19th century to attract tourists and means roughly: "St Mary's Church in the Hollow of the White Hazel near a Rapid Whirlpool and the Church of St Tysilio near the Red Cave".
For Benzino, it was a childhood dream come true (thanks to a 5th-grade English book). Sadly, the iconic sign was surrounded by scaffolding. Katharina was unimpressed.
Anglesey Lighthouse Adventure
From there, we headed for a windswept beach walk on Anglesey, aiming to see one of the island’s famous lighthouses. These historic beacons have guided ships along the Welsh coast for centuries – and nearly blew us off the cliffs. Extremely windy but worth it.
Craig y Dinas MTB Ride – The Real Welsh Experience
Rain was forecasted, so we got up early to bike around Craig y Dinas, a prominent rocky ridge known for dramatic views and sheep. We didn’t beat the weather, though. It rained sideways, trails turned to rivers, and sheep poop was everywhere. An authentic Welsh MTB adventure.
The Victoria Inn: Our New Favorite Pub
We love the pub culture here: vinegary chips, cold pints, and cozy fireplaces. The Victoria Inn ticked all the boxes. We sipped half pints while Pepe devoured dog ice cream and dozed under our table.
Barmouth: Coffee & Culinary Surprises
We took an afternoon to explore Barmouth, a coastal town with serious charm. Katharina tracked down Goodies Coffee Shop for her oat milk fix.
Dinner that evening was a surprise: Foxglove, a tiny restaurant offering a five-course vegan Welsh-Japanese tasting menu. Organic, flavorful, and with its own doggy bed for Pepe – yes, really.
The chef even came out for cuddles, and we got a tip: skip Snowdon. The train-accessible summit attracts big crowds, and we were in the mood for something quieter.
Cader Idris: Our Summit Hike
Following that advice, we tackled Cader Idris, a majestic mountain steeped in Welsh legend. According to folklore, those who sleep on its summit either go mad or become poets.
We climbed in stormy conditions, with no views but plenty of atmosphere. The ridge, lake, and rock formations made it one of our favorite hikes.
Katharina wasn’t thrilled about the windswept summit photo — hood up, hair everywhere. A small price to pay for another incredible day in Wales.
Dates traveled: August 5 - 9, 2025
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